Two Weeks With My Best Friends - Week One

Late last fall, I experienced what I can only describe as the trip of a lifetime. Two unforgettable weeks in Germany, Italy, and Austria with my two favorite humans: Abby, my best friend of 45+ years, and Robert, my husband of 31+ years. (You can read more about this incredible duo in Starting 52 With a Passport and a Grateful Heart.)

If you had told me even three years ago that this would be my life… traveling through Europe, celebrating birthdays abroad, and soaking in moments like these… I would have laughed and said, not a chance. Funny how quickly life can change when you say yes to more.

Germany: Where It All Began

Our adventure officially kicked off on a Saturday in Frankfurt, Germany. From there, Robert and I hopped on a train to Stuttgart to meet Abby. The afternoon was spent wandering through the Altes Schloss (a castle dating back to the 10th century that now houses part of the Landesmuseum Württemberg), strolling through beautiful parks, and browsing vibrant farmers and street food markets.

Abby then introduced us to one of my new favorite foods ever… Döner mit allem from Utzel Brutzel. Imagine a giant gyro meets burrito… but somehow better. Ours was made with chicken, and I’m still thinking about it to this day. (Pause to wipe drool.)

That evening, we explored Böblingen during Märchenherbst, a charming medieval-style festival filled with vendors, lights, and fall magic, followed by dinner at Brauhaus Schönbuch. By the time our heads hit the pillows, jet lag was already knocking loudly.

Sunday was slower, more exploring around Stuttgart, gelato (always yes), and time spent with family. Exhaustion officially won, and we turned in early.

Floral vendor at a street market in Germany displaying colorful bouquets of fresh flowers

Browsing a variety of local cheeses at a small market in Stuttgart, Germany

Peace sign hand in front of airplane window with aerial view of water and coastline below

The Kunstmuseum Stuttgart surrounded by manicured landscaping under a cloudy sky in Stuttgart, Germany

Neues Schloss palace in Stuttgart, Germany, with its grand Baroque architecture

A variety of locally grown produce at a farmers market in Stuttgart, Germany

Enjoying a local favorite döner sandwich while exploring Stuttgart, Germany.

Olives and assorted delicacies displayed in a market case in Stuttgart, Germany

Italy: Sensory Overload in the Best Way

Bright and early Monday morning, we boarded a train, caught a flight to Munich, and then continued on to Bologna, Italy, where we’d be staying for three nights. I was wildly unprepared for how much I would love it.

The architecture. The endless porticoes. The fresh pasta. The colorful produce. The narrow cobblestone streets lined with tiny, authentic eateries and outdoor seating that felt straight out of a movie. And the bicycles… classic Italian city bikes with baskets filled with bread and flowers. Absolutely adorable.

Ravenna Day Trip

Tuesday started with fresh pastries and cappuccinos (clearly a theme), then we hopped a train to Ravenna, famous for its breathtaking mosaics. The Basilica di San Vitale left me completely speechless. The detail, the color, the fact that these mosaics are over 1,400 years old. How is that even possible?

Afterward, we enjoyed a long, leisurely lunch with wine, meat and cheese, fresh bread, and pasta (because of course). Thankfully, we were averaging close to 10 miles of walking a day, which we promptly continued after lunch. More sightseeing, more architecture, and more mosaics, including those at the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, before heading back to Bologna.

That night, we had hands-down one of the best meals of the trip at Il Tartufo Trattoria. I ordered the Risotto in Forma, which was prepared tableside inside a massive wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, then topped generously with fresh black truffle. It was rich, indulgent, and unforgettable. (Yes, more drool wiping.) And if you happen to be in the neighborhood, since it’s literally right down the street, lol… you have to stop in and try it. Tell Lina I said hi. She is truly the sweetest and treated us like family from the moment we walked in.

The breathtaking large mosaic display inside the Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy

Adorable Italian-style bicycle with a basket of fresh flowers

Tasty assortment of cured meats and cheeses at Marchesini Restaurant in Ravenna, Italy

Detailed mosaic artwork depicting Christ and apostles inside the Chapel of St. Andrew in Ravenna, Italy

Charming old double doors with rich patina framed by a golden yellow wall, a café table, and a bicycle on a pebbled street

Couple sharing a toast with white wine at a cozy outdoor café in Italy

Mouthwatering risotto finished with melted Parmigiano Reggiano and a generous shaving of black truffle

The stunning colors and textures of the mosaics in the Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy

Venice on My Birthday

Wednesday was my birthday, and we celebrated by taking a train to Venice. Saying that still feels unreal. Italy on my birthday? Never in a million years did I imagine this would be my life.

Venice was everything you see in the movies and somehow even better. The canals, gondolas, weathered stone buildings, wooden shutters, and tiny balconies strung with laundry and potted plants. It was all impossibly charming. As we wandered deeper into the city, we passed shops selling baked goods, leather, and Murano glass. The air smelled like fresh bread, pastries, cured meats, cheese, olives, and pasta.

Turning one corner opened into a large square where St. Mark’s Basilica stood in all its ornate glory. The detail was breathtaking.

We took a ferry to Murano, known for its glassmaking, where shop after shop showcased stunning (and slightly overwhelming) glass creations. After a bit of shopping, pizza, and a glass-blowing demonstration, we headed back to Venice to explore some more.

What struck me most was the absence of cars. Everything moved by foot or boat. Children walked home from school carefree, despite the crowds. Life felt slower, simpler, and peaceful. I couldn’t help but wonder if they realized how extraordinary their everyday surroundings were, or if, like so many of us, they might someday take it for granted.

We returned to Bologna late that night but still managed one last Italian dinner, followed by gelato on the walk back to our apartment. I went to bed with a full belly, a full heart, and the best birthday memories I could have asked for.

The Climb, the Chaos, and the Longest Travel Day Ever

Thursday morning started early with a brisk walk to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. From the base, we climbed 2.6 miles uphill under a portico of 666 arches. I won’t lie, I prayed my way up and seriously questioned my life choices, but I made it. And the view? Completely worth it.

After hustling back, showering, packing, and heading to the train station, things took a sharp turn. The station went into lockdown due to protesters. No one in, no one out. Chaos everywhere.

What followed was the travel day from hell: delayed flights, missed connections, sprinting across the Munich airport (triggering a surprise asthma attack), rerouted flights, and eventually landing in Cologne at 2 a.m. only to be put on a cramped double-decker bus for a four-hour ride back to Stuttgart.

We finally arrived at 6 a.m. Friday morning. We were supposed to be home by 4:30 p.m. the day before.